No Rice For El Cucuy

 He was a son of immigrants who succeeded in reaching his life's ambitions. But, ignoring the lessons of his honorable, but poor, father, he used every advantage of education and charisma--plus a bit of intimidation and shady dealings, to enrich his pockets and gain undue prominence. Captivated by his dark good looks and overwhelmed by the force of his personality, she let herself be taken in by him.

Her mother, though, saw past the suave veneer, beyond the carefully cultivated image of the upstanding citizen: she saw only arrogance and rapaciousness, which caused him to forget compassion and good principles. In Mexico when she was young, she knew of men with the same easy laugh and wolf-like eyes, alert to any petty vanity of a poor little cook or maid, and using it against her to flatter and allure her until, like a little bird, she was caught in a cage of disgrace and humiliation.

Sooner or later that man would discard her precious daughter like a basurita--a little piece of trash. Please, she begged her, don't leave with ese cucuy de traje—that devil in a suit. "El Cucuy" was nothing if not amused when he heard his new nickname, for he thought it fit him as well as he wore Armani. As for her now stubborn as a goat daughter, she left without saying goodbye one sunny morning, leaving the front door wide open as she marched out with her suitcases in her hands, throwing them in the backseat of her convertible, and driving off with her long hair flapping in the wind.

So, esa santurrona--the sanctimonious old bag thought he was a bad man. That mattered nothing to him. He was confident that he would eventually win over the mother as surely as he had seduced the daughter. In reality, the thought of una pobretona de vieja—some poor, but respectable, older woman—looking down her nose on him, rankled his well manicured feathers. When he had her feeding out of his hand, he would teach her a little lesson in respect.

Too bad for him that he never got that chance—because la pobretona's daughter finally understood that she had become the plaything of a man who made it perfectly clear that he cared nada for her, except to amuse him until the day he tired of her. Why worry about your honor now? You should have thought of that when that hypocrita of a mother of yours sold you off, he told her with his mouth twisted into a cruel little smile.

She responded by leaving him for good the next day.

She headed to the dusty south end of town, with its taco shops, swap meets and chile vendors who lined the streets selling large bunches of hot dark red New Mexico chiles. To a place where people polish their cars in their front yards drinking beer, not champagne, while listening to Norteña and Old School music blaring from stereos. A place she had hoped never to return to, ever.

Pulling in front of an old brick house with a rose and cactus garden, she noticed that her mother had planted some tomato and chile plants. Soon her mother would use them to make a fiery salsa that no one could stop eating. An old mesquite tree provided the only shade from the hot Arizona sun. Inside the dark house the air conditioner was roaring, but the kitchen was hot. She smelled the red spicy molé her mother was cooking for that day. Then she saw her little round figure at the ancient stove frying some rice with onions and garlic in a wide pan. Her mother heard her voice as she came through the door, but pretended not to notice until she stood right at her side. She did not turn around.
"So, you left him." Both face and voice were devoid of expression.
"Yes."
Pouring fresh tomato purée into the fried rice, her mother then started frying it until it was a little burned.
"You know I never liked that man."
"I know that."
Her mother had not looked at her once, but continued cooking. Coming here was a mistake, she thought to herself. She wants to have nothing to do with me. Her tight dress felt uncomfortable in the stifling heat, her tongue was swollen from thirst. Neither spoke for a minute or two.

"I suppose you want to stay here." This can't be my daughter, her mother thought as she caught the sight of her daughter's stilletos. She looks like she just stepped out of a telenovela [a soap opera].
"Only if you let me," she replied with a humility that was at odds with her appearance, "but even if you don't, I'm never going back to that place."

The hardness in her daughter's voice surprised her and made her hesitate, but she did not say a word as she poured the chicken broth into the rice. Then, above the hissing sound of the liquid meeting the hot pan, her mother peered over and demanded, "And what do you have in those suitcases, all that basura—trash—that sinvergüenza--that shameless no good--bought you?"

"Nothing, only my self-respect . . ." she heard herself say. "Only my self-respect," she repeated tonelessly as if she were on autopilot. Only then did she realize that she was still carrying her suitcases, clutching them so tightly that her arms and fingers hurt.

Her mother finally turned to look at her daughter for the very first time since she entered the house. Regret over her harsh words cast a shadow over her features. She bowed her head to wipe the perspiration from her forehead with the edge of her apron. When she looked up, her daughter's dark eyes, so much like her own, met hers, and in that instant they spoke in that silent language that only a mother and daughter understand—of estrangement and reconciliation, of hurt and forgiveness, of shame and redemption, of a love that no hombre malo—bad man—could ever undo.

"Mamá," her daughter cried, finally letting the suitcases drop to the floor.

There are many things you can learn from your mamá, one is spotting a cucuy from a mile away. Another is making Arroz a La Mexicana for the day when you make it for someone who really loves your cooking—and you.
Mexican Rice--"Arroz a la mexicana"

(Or, How to Make Bad Rice)
To make bad rice all you need to do is to cook it in a cheap, lightweight pot with a loose-fitting lid. But, if you want to make great rice, here's what you do: use a heavy-bottomed pot or wide pan (preferably) with a tight fitting lid. (Place wax paper or aluminum foil under the lid to insure a tight seal.) Prior to cooking, rinse the rice many times until the water runs clear. Dry with a clean towel.
What you need:
1 ½ cups of white long grain rice
2/3 cup of chopped white onion
1 or 2 large garlic cloves
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 average sized tomatos, the juiciest you can find; OR, an 8 oz. can of tomato sauce; OR, 2 or 3 canned tomatoes with some its juice

Dash of dried oregano, or to taste
Pinch of cumin, or to taste
2 ½ cups of chicken broth
Salt to taste

Coarsely chop the fresh or canned tomato and purée in the blender. Set aside. Rinse the rice as instructed above. Heat the pot or pan over high heat for a minute or two. Then add vegetable oil. When the oil is very hot, but not smoking, add the rice. Turn down heat to medium. Sauté rice until it is golden. Add garlic and onion. Continue to sauté until the onion is semi-transparent. Add tomato or tomato sauce.

Continue to sautée until the tomato purée forms into a paste and is slightly "burned" (you will see that the sides of the pan are golden brown). Add the chicken broth. Bring to a boil. Cover with lid and lower heat to a low simmer. Continue cooking for about 25 minutes or so.

Variation: add ½ cup of peas, or a little bit of sliced cooked carrots when adding the chicken broth.

Tip: If you find that after cooking time, the rice is still not completely cooked, but the chicken broth has completely evaporated, add a little bit of boiling water. Replace the lid and wait a few minutes.

My Little Pig-Headed Molcajete Salsa Garden

This is my little pig-headed molcajete for making salsa fresca—common enough in Mexico, but a novelty here in the United States. Made from basalt volcanic rock and used since ancient times by the Aztecs and the Mayas, it is an indispensable tool in the Mexican kitchen.

Whenever I have had certain guests over for dinner and I bring el molcajete to the table, they look at me with a mixture of surprise and a little bit of nervousness. Once, a young little guest asked me, “Do we have to eat the rock?”
Of course, I always eat it with my salsa,” I replied with the look of utmost seriousness. Then I winked at his little panic-stricken face. Everybody laughed, but I knew that they were worrying that they would have to eat rocks, too.
Only after taking a taste did they see that this salsa rocks, like totally.
What this molcajete and its tejolote crushing tool do is to produce is the most luscious no-cook salsa fresca ever, especially if you are using the sweetest, juiciest tomatoes you can find. No blender can duplicate the taste and texture of a molcajete-made salsa. The ingredients are crushed, not cut, and the flavor, though subtle, carries over the taste of the stone (which must have some health benefits) and of salsas and spices past.
Up until a few years ago, every spring I scoured nurseries hunting for the best plants and seeds to start a salsa garden. I bought soil and tomato cages and dug in the dirt, sometimes all day, planting tomatoes and green onions, serrano and jalapeño chiles and cilantro. Later, when summer’s harvest arrived, I’d put on my straw gardening hat to go out and pick the best ones for my salsa. What a delight to feel those tomatoes, red and warm to the touch, each looking like giant ruby gemstones.
Anyone who grew up in the city or who spends most of the day working indoors or sitting behind a desk should go out of doors and plant a salsa garden of his or her own, even if only in containers. Then will they experience a sensory delight which up until now they have never had or have forgotten: the rich sensation of feeling dark soil on your hands with the sun on your back, watching beautiful things that you planted yourself, grow.

You will be proud to share the fruits of your labor with your family and friends. Almost everyone will be grateful to receive this uncommonly delicious gift. And, even if your salsa garden project is a dismal failure, it was not a total waste of time. You will have found a new respect for our antepasados—forebearers, who knew how to coach the soil into producing food to feed their families—despite adversity, The Mexican Revolution, and poverty. Perhaps it will change your life’s perspective in ways you never imagined--that living in the world of ideas and solely through one’s brain is not the only way to experience life. All because you planted a little garden to make salsa fresca in a humble molcajete.

Little Pig-Headed Molcajete No-Cook Salsa Fresca
What you need:
A mocajete with tejolote crushing tool (available online, at Mexican markets, or go to Mexico and buy one). Make sure to cure the molcajete by rinsing with water, letting it dry, and grinding in some raw rice.

Sharp knife
If you do not have a molcajete:
A sharp knife for chopping and mincing
A potato masher

A large bowl

Ingredients:

2 sweet, juicy tomatoes—home grown is ideal, but a pint of miniature tomatoes such as cherry or grape tomatoes are perfect, too.

1 large garlic clove

1 serrano chile-coarsely chopped, but finely minced if you do not have a molcajete. Strip off seeds and veins if you don’t want it too hot.

1 or 2 stalks of green onion including tops, finely diced.

Coarsely chopped cilantro to taste (optional, you can omit it, but why?)
Squirt of fresh lime juice

Salt to taste
Chopped avocado (optional)
Coarsely chop tomatoes and serrano chile. Put them in molcajete with garlic and start crushing with grinding tool until well blended. Add green onions, cilantro and avocado. Add squirt of lime and salt to taste.

Without molcajete: Coarsely chop tomatoes. Use potato masher and crush with minced serrano chile until well blended. Add green onions, cilantro, and avocado. Add squirt of lime and salt to taste.